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Shell Point Fig



Planting and Care Facts (pdf)Zone: 7-10Fig Size Info

Size: 5x5x12 or 3 Gal., 3-4 Ft.

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Product Description

Shell Point Fig – Humongous!

This unknown fig came to us through a friend of Tom Wollschlager of Shell Point FL. Tom’s father brought fig cuttings from overseas and the tree has flourished every since. The Shell Point fig is a very large, green skinned fig with pink flesh. Closed eye. Ripens August-September. Zone 7-10.

Note: We’re so sorry… but due to agricultural restrictions we cannot ship any plants to international countries, or the states of California, Hawaii and Alaska. Also, no citrus trees can be shipped outside of the state of Florida.

Additional Information

Pot Size

3 Gal

Plant Height

2-3 Ft.

Planting Zone




Ripening Season

August through September

Choosing the Right Fig Variety…

Dominico WhiteFigs (Ficus carica) are one of the easiest, most problem-free fruits you can grow. Not many people realize the range of varieties and the differences in textures and flavors among varieties. Some have a light, sweet, maple- syrup flavor while others are as thick and rich as strawberry jam. Most people are familiar with the summer ripening varieties but are unaware of the range of fall ripening figs. With proper variety selection it is possible to have tree-ripe figs from July through September. If birds are a problem choose a light skinned variety. Birds have a built-in notion that ripe figs are dark. They tend to leave the green skinned varieties alone.

We have selected and propagated over 20 self-fertile varieties suitable for home growing in the humid Southeast. Varieties requiring a fig wasp pollinator cannot be grown outside of commercial fig-growing areas in California because the fig wasp is absent. All figs suitable for the Southeast United States are self- pollinating. In addition, we suggest the group called closed eye figs. At the bottom of the fruit is an opening known as the eye. Water or insects can pass through this opening and cause fruit rot. Varieties with a long neck or peduncle allow the fruit to droop, preventing moisture or pests from entering the eye.

People in the far north that are subject to cold weather (zones 7) and they often are most successful with fig varieties that produce a breba crop. The breba crop is born on the last flush of growth of last year branches. These are the first figs of the year to ripen and in short summer season areas the ones that ripen before the first freeze. Take note when ordering.

Breba crop varieties are also good for southern climate gardeners as they will have a longer ripening season. The breba crop is early ripening in June and the main crop comes on in August and beyond. 


Landscaping with Fig Trees…..

Fig TreeSmall by nature, the fig tree is ideal for use in the shrubbery border. Their distinctive leaves make an excellent accent or specimen tree. Try mingling the broad, deeply lobed leaves of the fig with the willowy pomegranate and fine- textured, misty blue tones of the blueberry. Tie it all together with a lush groundcover of strawberries for a never-ending cycle of flowers, fruit and fall color.

The smooth, limber trunk of the young fig is perfect for training into espalier or twisting into odd specimen trees. Lay the trunk flat against the ground and the new vertical shoots make an instant hedge. Small-space gardeners take note. The root restraint of container growing brings extra-bountiful crops from the fig.



Figs will grow on a wide range of soils when good drainage is provided. Figs grown in soils
high in organic matter or clay content are less subject to nematode damage. Plant in full sun for
vigorous growth and good fruit crops. Avoid frost pockets – and damage by unseasonable frosts.

Spacing for figs depends upon the desired use in the landscape. Bushes can be planted
individually or in a hedgerow. Individual tree spacing is 15 to 20 feet. If planting a hedgerow,
space 6-10 feet apart. All figs suitable for the Southeast are self-pollinating, so bushes may be
planted as desired in the landscape.


Planting a TreeFigs prefer slightly acid soil (pH 5.5-6.5), but soils of up to moderate alkalinity are readily
tolerated. If you are in doubt about the acidity of your soil, it is very easy to take a sample to the
Cooperative Extension agent in your county for a soil test. Adjust soil pH as necessary.
Dig a planting hole approximately three times the width of the pot and at the same depth as
the root ball. Set that soil aside and mix it 50/50 with either aged mushroom compost, aged
manure, or rotted pine bark & aged manure/compost. Remove the plant from the pot, gently
loosen the root ball and place in the planting hole. To avoid burying too deep, make sure plant is
positioned with the top most roots at the soil line. Fill the planting hole with the mix of soil and
organic matter; gently tamp it in. Water thoroughly to settle the roots and eliminate air pockets.
Do NOT put fertilizer in the planting hole. Only apply fertilizer if it is the correct time
of year (see Fertilization section below).

MULCHING FIG TREES If desired, construct a water basin around the base of the fig approximately 36 inches in
diameter. Mulch in spring and summer with approximately 6-8 inches of mulch. Pull mulch a couple
of inches away from the trunk for good air circulation. Mushroom compost and rotted manure are
excellent mulches for fighting off nematodes in figs. Keep the area under the tree canopy clear of
grass and weeds to minimize competition for water and nutrients.



The type of fertilizer you choose may be chemical or organic. Make sure that the fertilizer
contains iron, zinc, manganese, magnesium, molybdenum, copper and boron. These minor elements
are very important to plants and most soils are low in these elements. Application rates vary
according to age of plant.

See chart below.

10-10-10 or 10-0-10 with minerals

1 cup per each year of trees life

-Max out at 9 cups on Mature Trees

Espoma Citrus Tone



6 cups for 1 year old

10 cups for 2 year old (4-6ft)

18 cups for 7-9ft tree

24 cups for tree over 9ft

Spread the fertilizer evenly under the entire canopy of the plant avoiding a 5-inch area around the trunk. Water or rake in. For Zones 9-10, fertilize 3 times each year in late February,

late May and late July/early August. For plants further north (Zones 7-8b), fertilize in March or
after bud break. Never fertilize after August (June in Zones 7-8b) as this will promote new growth
late in the year which will be subject to freeze damage.


The first year is the critical time for the establishment of a new fig. Water thoroughly
twice a week on light soils and once a week on clay soils. Soak the entire root system deeply – this
usually takes 40-50 minutes. Figs should receive at least 1 inch of water each week for best growth
and fruit production. Water regularly, especially during dry periods. Fruit may drop
prematurely if insufficiently irrigated during dry spells.



Fig are best pruned in very late winter or early spring when you can see what damage you have had from freezes. At times you will after a heavy freeze need to prune out damaged wood and restructure the tree.


Figs trees are best pruned to a low three to four scaffold limb system. Do not allow excessive suckers to arise beyond this system as the result will be lack of fruit and excessive growth. Take the first three years of the trees life to train it. Often training takes place during the summer months and is at the cost of getting fruit, but if done correctly you will have a low easy to pick tree for years to come.


AT PLANTING OR FIRST DORMANT SEASON Cut young fig trees off at 30 inches above the ground. During the first
growing season, the shoots that arise where the tree was topped form the scaffold limbs. Select 3-4 scaffold branches spaced equally around the trunk and remove other branches flush with the trunk. During the summer remove tips of the scaffold limbs when they reach 2 foot of height to encourage secondary branching.


Continue to train your fig trees during the next two years. Pruning should be designed to train the tree upward and outward by thinning out crossing branches. Top out shoots during the summer that have grown over 2 foot to encourage more scaffold branches. This training will encourage a short dense canopy that will make harvesting easier.


On the fourth year you are ready to start harvesting crops of figs. Depending on where you are in the country you will use differant techines to maintain your fig tree during it’s fruiting years.


-On year 4 after you have developed a good frame work you are ready to start managing the fruiting wood. Choose to leave all short one year shoots that are fat and healthy. Make sure they are well spaced on the tree where they can get good sunlight. Remove all weak and hanging down branches


-Year 5 and beyond. Trim all shoots that fruited last year back to a 2 bud stub, this will renew the crop wood for next year. Go through remaining shoots and choosing healthy shoot for sun and spacing. Remove all weak and hanging down branches


*Also note that some varieties when young or if the tree is over watered and fertilized, will produce excessively long shoots through out the summer, if not kept in check, these shoots can easily get out of control and cause a tree to be too large to pick. When pruning head back shoots over 3 foot in length to 1  1/2 foot.



Root knot nematodes may be a problem on sandy soils. Trees weakened by nematodes do not grow well and may not fruit. You probably have nematodes if you find small knots on the roots. In our area, nematodes may be reduced or eliminated through the use of heavy mulches and incorporation of large amounts of organic matter in the soil at the time of planting.

Fig Rust

Fig Rust

Fig Rust can be a problem in rainy seasons. It shows up as rusty brown discoloration on the leaf, resulting in distorted leaves and early leaf fall. This fungus can be controlled with a copper spray applied every 2-3 weeks from June to August. In addition, rake and burn fallen leaves in the fall or apply a heavy layer of mulch in the spring, to remove the source of fungal spores that might re-infect the tree the following year.


Always remember that good disease resistance begins with the health of the plant. Plants stressed from lack of water, not enough sun or being under fed are more susceptible to disease and insects.  Maintaining good sanitation practices in the orchard is most important. The removal of diseased and dead wood, and picking up fallen or rotting fruit off the trees as it occurs, will go a long way in keeping disease and insects at a minimum. Spray at first sign of an issue, rather than waiting until the problem is out of hand will go a long way to keeping your plants healthy and fruiting properly.





Very young figs may be damaged or killed at temperatures below 25°F, they. For the first year after planting we suggest that trees be covered. This is especially important in trees that have not entered dormancy or which have begun growth in the spring. If an established tree sustains frost damage, wait until growth has resumed in the spring to assess injury and remove dead limbs. With age the tree will develop a certain degree of cold tolerance.

Older trees are less subject to colder weather, but can be damaged by sudden dips or temperatures below 20F. Some things to keep in mind when preparing your trees, is to stop fertilizing in after May in northern zones (7-8A) and after July in southern zones (8b-9). Slow you watering down in the fall to allow the tree to harden off. If you know you are going into a very cold spell and the tree still has leaves or grfeen tips cover it for the night.

For Zone 7 and above, figs must be protected from winter cold. We suggest that the plants be surrounded by a wire cage and mulched heavily with leaves. The cage should be topped with tarpaper or plastic to keep the branches dry in the winter. Remove the cage and mulch in the spring after it warms.

Figs grown as container plants are also subject to frost damage since roots are above ground in a pot. Container figs should be kept at or above 25°F during winter. The grower of container figs will be rewarded with a good crop, since root restriction in figs promotes heavy fruit.


People that live in areas with short seasons are often in a race to get their figs to ripen before cold weather sets in. To get the best success do a couple of things. First choose a variety that will ripen a good breba crop. Breba crops fig varieties that fruit on the growth of last years wood. This crop will ripen in early summer. The second crop is the main crop and it is born on the new growth that arises in the spring. Often this crop can be induced to ripen sooner by oiling the fruit. Oiling blocks the eye of the fig, inducing ethylene to form, that is what hastens the ripening. You’ve got to get the fig close to ripening before the oil will work. Usually the best ones to do, are ones that are good size and you can see some coloring around the eye. You can use olive oil or any other refined edible oil. Just use a dropper to place the oil in the eye of the fig.